DERS-1b #0669

I'd always planned to keep The Valley Line firmly in the Steam Era. But then my friend Tom brought over one of Atlas' RS-1 models in the New Haven's delivery scheme, and equipped with amazing sound from ESU/Loksound. The prototype was delivered in the spring of 1948, so I could use one in the Autumn of that year. And once I discovered that the #0669 - one of the ones Atlas produced - was actually used on one of the Shore Line locals, well that cinched it. I had to get one. And thus my era started to creep. Click here more of that story.

Of course, I couldn't just leave the Atlas model alone, as beautiful as it is. I had to "New Haven-ize" it to the best of my ability. Fortunately, unlike the Proto 1000 RS-2 model, the Atlas RS-1 already has lift rings, stand-alone grabs and fine pilot detail. But in order to make it a New Haven DERS-1b, I needed to add the following details:

I made an executive decision not to add marker lamps & MU stands as I had on the DERS-2b. Just way too much trouble for what they add. I may scratchbuild & add MU details at some point in the future, but once I discovered that the Custom Finishing part wouldn't fit as it had on the RS-2, that ended that.

And don't even get me started on New Haven-only details such as the raised rear number boards, the different location of the fuel filler overflow pipe, not to mention the different locations of the fuel fillers themselves. If I worried about them, this model wouldn't get done for A Very Long Time.

So, first up - and the biggest visual bang for the time spent - are steam generator details on the short hood. And the first of those is the most intimidating - but might as well jump right in the deep end and start drilling a LARGE hole in the top of the (factory painted) cab...

Friend JohnK suggested that I simulate the exhaust stack going through the cab roof by fitting a 1/8" styrene tube between the hood and the roof and then adding a "washer" of material on top of the roof. That would avoid such delicate drilling.

But I'm stubborn - sometimes in a bad way - and doubted that that would look right. So I started drilling with a #60 drill, centered between the end of the cab and the edge of the roof, and gradually increased the drill diameter until I got to a 1/8" drill bit. Heh - it was that last little bit that finally broke through the roof edge that I had hoped to preserve. But to my eye, I think it looks fine - and certainly shows that the stack is all one piece.

Oh, and I decided to use brass tube rather than styrene so that the stack wall would be thinner (and the opening/inner diameter larger). It looks much closer to the prototype - again, to my eye anyway.

The biggest challenge so far (other than drilling such a precise hole) has been to get the right length. The stack has to barely protrude above the top of the roof. I'm using the cab vent height as a guide.

You may have to click for a larger image (you can always click on an image to make it larger), but you can see here that I'm pretty close. Just a bit more filing to do.

It's amazing how the addition of one little(ish) detail can really start to change the look of a stock model and make it start to look like the prototype. Just have to paint the tube - then I think it'll look just right (despite having broken through the edge of the roof).

Next, on the list - installing the hand brake chain and guides.

The chain has to attach to the brake valve pistons somehow, but you try to drill a hole through that little nub (the end of the brake lever sticking through the "clevis" at the end of the piston). I opted to just file that off to provide a flat area for drilling a #80 hole.

I then inserted a piece of .0125" wire, bent up into a hook at the end that I could use to hang the chain on.

Next, I drilled the mounting holes for the chain guides. Prototype photos are absolutely critical for determining location. As you can see, I had one false start. It's not easy drilling such small holes into the metal frame, but I made a dimple with a safety pin, lubricated the bit with bar soap and used my foot pedal/flex shaft Dremel combo to regulate the speed, backing out often to clear the metal shavings. Didn't break a single bit!

I threaded the chain through the guides before gluing the guides in place. Much easier than trying to thread them afterwards (ask me how I know!). Be sure to ream out the holes in the guides so that the chain goes through easily. I then glued them using gap-filling CA and - once in final position - I touched them with CA accelerant. That creates an instant, and secure, bond. I love this combo for just about all my non-styrene gluing. Click here for more about it.

I glued the rear end of the chain to the small guide, trimmed the chain to length (determined by swiveling the truck to its extreme), and hooked it on the little hook I'd installed on the end of the brake piston. It was SO fussy trying to do that that I decided to go ahead and glue that end of the chain as well so it wouldn't ever fall off. The photo above shows the final result.

Next, I drilled mounting holes for the BARCO steam heat pipes and glued them in place, using my favorite CA/kicker combo.

The Atlas model comes with LOTS of detail already in place (unlike the Proto1000 RS-2, which had almost no detail at all - not even grab irons!) , including a brake hose. But that brake hose didn't look that great (no valve), and I needed a signal hose as well, so I figured I'd next drill a couple mounting holes and glue nicer-looking ones in place.

The easiest detail to prepare (only needed painting) but the hardest to install (since there were no mounting lugs) was the diaphram buffer. I used contact cement to mount it - and hope it holds.

And in this - and the next - photo, you can see the completed end details

Like on the RS-2, the RS-1 has a brake equalization valve on the running board, but it's in a different location - in front of the engineer instead of behind the fireman.

Once the frame/end details were curing, I turned my attention back to the hoods. As I mentioned, I'd already installed the steam heat exhaust stack (including drilling a precise hole through the cab roof - free hand), so I next installed the rear horn and intake stack (aka "mushroom" vent). Full Disclosure: while I could find no blueprints/dimensions for this detail, I think it's on the small side. But it's still not as small as the part that Custom Finishing recommends. It'll do for now - at least until I wanna bother scratchbuilding one. Still looks pretty good.

And here's the front horn. The Atlas model has the horn coming out of the front of the cab. Not cool (or correct), so you have to fill that hole and drill a new one. But the result is worth the effort.

Once that was done, so was I. All that was left was to take a couple of "builders photos"

I didn't go quite as all-out on this engine as I did on the RS-2 (I skipped the marker lights, the MU stands/hoses, and the speed recorder). And, unlike the RS-2 model which is close to accurate for the New Haven units, the RS-1 model needs a bunch of changes to be perfectly accurate, which I didn't bother with:

So yeah, I didn't bother making those changes (though I did purchase an extra hood and cab for a possible future project...)

But all in all, despite these minor (to me) compromises, I'm very happy with how the 0669 turned out - and am especially happy it's finally done.  All I have left to do is some minor touch-up and weathering.


For those who might be interested in trying this project, here's a list of the parts I used: